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But it is exactly the quotidian that attracted Smith, and it was the quotidian she began to look for as she started to build the collection, which she defines as a liberal arts archive that advances the academic inquiry of women of diverse economic and social backgrounds, through the study of their dress from the 19th century to today. In 1981, she spent nine months of a sabbatical at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute as a curatorial assistant to Stella Blum, then curator of costumes, to learn more about managing a collection